The lid and base for the box are rebated around the edges to allow them to be housed in the carcass.
The glued up box is dry, and the dimensions of the lid are marked out along the sides as a guide for the saw.
Note that I am careful to mark through the middle of the tails as they have the longest registration and will remain sturdy after cutting.
The lid is part cut on the tablesaw. I only cut about 3/4 of the way through to keep the carcass intact - and then finish it off with a handsaw.
Here I am using my Spear and Jackson 10 point panel saw which is perfect for this little job.
The separated lid and the body now need their mating edges cleaned up with a plane to eliminate the saw marks.
Either the lid or the carcass now need a stepped seal to help them mate when closed, and to provide a barrier against dust and moisture.
I have chosen to do it to the lid as I don't want this lip to impede the placement and removal of the camera when in use.
The stepped seal is simple - mitred at the ends and glued into place.
This has to be rounded slightly at its outside edges - particularly the front - to make closure easier.
I will use a piano hinge for strength, as the hinge will have to bear part of the weight of the box and its contents when it is carried.
Clasps are simple stainless steel snap locks - I found mine on ebay.
In part 3, I will show how I lay out the inside to support the camera and its parts.
Happy shavings to all.
You have no concerns about the the top and bottom expansion and contraction?
ReplyDeleteHi Ralph,
ReplyDeleteYes , that is an issue that I considered and it could come back to haunt me of course.
I have seen and made cases like this with plywood tops and bottoms, but needed the strength in this one so it will carry the weight.
I'll certainly monitor it.
Cheers
Tom
Nice work, as always.
ReplyDeleteNice shop too! I'm jealous!