Others, I have found in all sorts of places. Garage and boot sales, Sunday Markets, second hand and bric-a-brac stores, online and other auctions - to name a few.
It helps enormously to have a working knowledge of hand tools before looking. Familiar names of quality tool makers, and the styles of their construction are a walk up start. Often you can recognise a quality nameless tool because of its obvious parentage.
Here is a little gem that I found today - pre-owned but definitely not pre-loved.
First step was to get rid of the rust and scale, and see what damage to the steel lurked beneath.
Hmmm ... lots of pitting to both sides. Pitting on the top is ugly and deep - but is only cosmetic, pitting on the bottom is a real problem. At this stage, the back is so bad that only the bottom half will be given help, as this is where all the cutting action will take place.
The pitting is quite deep here, and to hand flatten this would take days. I used an electric linisher with quite coarse grit to begin the flattening, keeping the blade cool during the process so as not to affect the temper of the steel.
Here is the back of the blade after introducing it to the linisher. A big improvement, but the scoring from the coarse grit now needs to be removed. Also, the cutting edge has been radiused in the past for some reason and has a distinct roundness. I don't want this rounding, and will grind the edge back to square. This will necessitate re-grinding the bevel as well. Many modern woodworkers now approach the back flattening, by working their way through four, five or even six ever-finer grits.
I don't believe that this would have been the practice for craftsmen in the era of these tools. It simply would have taken too long, and I'm not even sure that such a range of grinding grits was available to them in any case.
I am using only two stones. The first is a commonly available at any hardware store combination oil stone - coarse/fine. First, the coarse side. This is used to begin removing the linisher lines and also to shape the bevel.
Next, the finer of the two sides of the stone. To lubricate, I use a kerosene/oil mix of around 5/1. Works well for me, and doesn't clog the stone.
Once again I work on the back and the bevel, but this time I add a micro bevel. I have become accustomed to the position of my hand and wrist relative to the stone when doing this, and I do it now from muscle memory without checking. I guess this is the benefit from hand sharpening a few thousand times over the last forty years. It would be an advantage to anyone starting out to use a bevel guide.
Finally, I use a very fine white arkansas stone that was passed down to me from my wife's father. It is very hard and very fine. Same lubrication as before.
And that's it. The blade is good enough to use and will cut well.
Of course the chisel needs a handle, and this piece of local Eucalypt will be suitable. I don't know what species - maybe white mahogany, but it is sturdy timber and I know it will turn well. I'll have to leave that until another day.
This same process can be followed in resurrecting all chisels. Saws and planes are another matter, and I'll address those in the near future.
Happy woodworking to all.